Harish Kurade, a resident of his village in southern Maharashtra state, looked at models as they sashayed down the runway at Milan Fashion Week last week in amazement while driving more than 7, 000 kilometers (4,350 miles) away.
Models were showcasing a new line of open-toe leather sandals, designed by Prada, the iconic luxury fashion house. The Italian giant’s failure to give credit to the ancient Maharashtra roots of its most recent design caused a stir among Indian artisans and politicians.
We are really happy that they stole and made up our crafty work, Kurade said in a chirpy voice. “Today, the world’s eyes are on our Kolhapuri ‘ chappals ‘]Hindi for sandals]”. The sandals are named after the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra.
In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Prada acknowledged that its new sandal designs “are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.”
While Kurade is chuffed about the centuries-old sandal-making craft from his village potentially gaining global exposure, other artisans, politicians and activists are wary of cultural appropriation and financial exploitation by Prada.
What’s the cause of the controversy then? And what are Kolhapur’s artisans saying about Prada? Can it change anything for the workers behind the original sandals?
What entered Prada?
At Milan Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2026 men’swear collection, Prada unveiled the classic T-strapped leather flats.
In its show notes, the Italian brand described the new range of footwear only as “leather sandals”. Despite its odd resemblance to Kolhapuri sandals, which are wildly popular in India and frequently worn on special occasions like weddings and festivals, the notes made no mention of any Indian connections.
A delegation of Kolhapuri sandal manufacturers met Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday last week to express their outrage.
Showing his support for the delegation is Dhananjay Mahadik, a member of parliament from the state’s Kolhapur district, belonging to the governing Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP). Mahadik informed reporters that Prada’s sandal makers and their supporters are preparing to file a lawsuit against Prada in the Bombay High Court.
Mahadik also urged Fadnavis to “protect the cultural heritage of Maharashtra” by calling for “urgent attention to a serious infringement on Maharashtra’s cultural identity and artisan rights.”
In his letter, he noted that the sandals are reportedly priced at approximately $1, 400 a pair. In contrast, local markets sell authentic Kolhapuri sandals for about $12.
How has Prada responded?
The chairperson of Prada’s Board of Directors, Patrizio Bertelli, also received a letter from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry, and Agriculture (MACCIA) regarding the concerns of sandal manufacturers.
The company responded two days later, stating that the footwear’s design was influenced by ancient Indian sandals. “We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please take note that no confirmations of production or commercialization have been made for the entire collection as of yet, and that no projects have been made commercially or internally.
The company continued to “commit to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities, as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft.”
” Prada strives to pay homage and recognise the value of such specialised craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. “
Hyderabad-based fashion entrepreneur Srihita Vanguri described Prada’s actions as “depressing but not unexpected.”
She told Al Jazeera, “Luxury brands have a long history of borrowing design elements from traditional crafts without giving due credit until there is a backlash.” This is cultural appropriation if it stops at inspiration without attribution or benefit-sharing. “
Kolhapuris, as they are also known, are more than just a design, she resisted. They bear the remnants of Karnataka, a state that has existed for centuries, and Maharashtra’s craft communities. Ignoring that context erases real people and livelihoods, “she added.
What about Kolhapur’s artisans?
Kolhapur, a city in the southwest of Maharashtra, is renowned for its rich history, its spiritual significance, and its artisanal pride. Beyond its crafts, Kolhapur is also home to several revered Hindu temples and a rich culinary legacy – its food is spicy.
More than 20 000 local families still trade sandals, which are renowned as sandals, dating back to the 12th century.
Kurade’s family, who was pleased that Prada had chosen to show the sandals, has lived in Kolhapur and has been involved in this industry for more than 100 years.
But he said the business has taken a beating in recent years”. People in India aren’t really into this craft or want to invest any more money in it. Maybe it’s good for us if an international brand visits, steals it, and posts it on global platforms, he said.
He said that craftsmen like those in his family” still stand where they were years ago”.
The 40-year-old said, “We have the craft and the capacity to advance, but the government has not supported us.”
Kurade asserted that politics has worsened the situation.
Since 2014, when Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s Hindu majoritarian government came to power in New Delhi, cows have transformed from just symbols of reverence into a flashpoint for religious identity and social conflict. With vigilantes pursuing Dalits and Muslims, the communities that primarily transport cows and buffaloes to trading markets where they are traded for slaughter, cow protection, once largely cultural, has become violent.
That has resulted in a dependable supply of cow and buffalo hides, which are then tanned with vegetables to create Kolhapuri chappals.
” The original hide we use for quality is restricted in several states because of politics around cows, “said Kurade”. Due to politics surrounding cows, the supply has reached new lows, and we have been losing because it is so difficult to keep doing it with the same level of quality.
People will wear this because it has been cherished for centuries, according to craftsmen like Kurade who believe that if they can make the sandals less expensive and more accessible.
Still, Kurade said, while Prada can try and imitate Kolhapuri aesthetics, it cannot replicate the intricate hand-woven design patterns, mastered by the Dalit community in southern Maharashtra and some parts of bordering Karnataka. The most underrepresented group of India’s complex caste system has historically been the most marginalized.
He said, “The authentic design is something special and special. Even shops in Kolhapur city may not have them. “
Kurade claimed that traditional designs are still produced in villages using centuries-old craft.
Dalit sandal makers need assistance, he said because of the difficulty of obtaining high-quality hides and the unfamiliarity of an increasingly digital marketplace.
” People who know markets, who can sell it ahead, are the ones cashing in on this. We lack the marketing expertise because poor villagers like us cannot run a website, he said.
The government has a duty to look into this, bridge this gap, and say they should do so. The benefits never reached the real makers from the Dalit groups. “
Has it already occurred?
Since 2019, after sustained advocacy by artisan groups, India has protected Kolhapuri sandals under its Geographical Indications of Goods Act (1999), preventing commercial use of the term” Kolhapuri Chappal “by unauthorised producers. However, national borders only allow for this protection.
Prada has previously faced significant criticism for its alleged cultural appropriation, most notably in 2018, when it released the “Pradhamalia” collection of keychains and figurines that immediately resembled racist caricatures with exaggerated red lips and with blackface imagery. After the backlash, Prada pulled the products from stores and issued a public apology.
Prada has also been criticized for its use of animal-based luxury materials like ostrich and exotic leathers, which have drawn criticism from environmental and labor rights groups.
Prada is not the only one.
In 2019, Christian Dior drew criticism for incorporating elements inspired by the traditional attire of Mexican horsewomen in its Cruise collection, without formal acknowledgement or collaboration.
Isabel Marant, a French designer, was accused of cultural appropriation in Mexico in 2015 for marketing a blouse that resembled the Mixe community’s traditional embroidery patterns.
The fashion entrepreneur, Vanguri, said that “the real respect would be Prada co-creating a capsule collection with Kolhapuri artisan clusters – giving them fair design credit, profit share, and global visibility.”
Source: Aljazeera
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