Fast fashion and the dark side of textile recycling in India

101 East exposes the dark side of our fast fashion obsession, revealing its toll on India’s environment and workers.

Fast fashion has become a global wardrobe staple.

It’s an affordable way to stay on top of ever-evolving trends, but at what cost?

Many items are discarded after just a few wears, with shipping containers of textile waste flooding into India, now known as the world’s textile wasteland.

For workers tasked with recycling these cast-offs from Western countries, the consequences can be severe – both to their health and the environment.

‘No one is safe’: Civilians, foreigners caught in escalating Mali violence

Sikasso, Mali – The Kayes region, which borders Senegal and is vital to Mali’s economy, had remained largely untouched by the violence from armed groups that has rocked the country for several decades.

But that changed when armed men waged a string of coordinated attacks on military installations in several Malian towns last week, after which the country’s armed forces launched a counterattack that it said killed 80 fighters.

The uptick in violent clashes between armed fighters and the Malian army – who are being assisted by Russian paramilitaries known as the Africa Corps – comes as the country’s political future looks murky, experts say, with the military-led government seemingly determined to permanently extend its rule.

For more than a decade, Mali has faced rebellions from separatist movements and armed fighters, including the two most active groups – ISIL affiliate, the Islamic State in the Greater Sahara (ISGS), and al-Qaeda-linked Jama’at Nusrat al-Islam wal-Muslimin (JNIM).

JNIM claimed responsibility for last Tuesday’s attacks, which Malian officials said targeted seven major towns in the west and centre: Kayes, Nioro du Sahel, Niono, Molodo, Sandare, Gogui and Diboli.

The group did not list any human or material casualties, but its leader Iyad Ag Ghali said JNIM had taken total control of three enemy barracks and dozens of military positions.

At the same time, during the attack on Kayes town, three Indian nationals working at a cement factory were forcibly taken by gunmen as “hostages”, the Indian foreign ministry said on Wednesday, in an incident that could risk escalating the crisis beyond Africa’s Sahel.

This month’s attacks are also just the tip of the iceberg, as communities across Mali continue to be caught in the crossfire – at times to violent and even deadly ends.

Less than a fortnight earlier, on the night of June 18, areas in the centre of the country, including Diallassago and Dianweli, were the scene of attacks in which at least 130 people were killed.

Before that, on May 23, an armed group attack on the Dioura military camp in the Mopti region killed 41 members of the Malian army.

Malian soldiers attend a training session in the Mopti region [File: Paul Lorgerie/Reuters]

Foreigners ‘potential targets’

Security experts say the army is understaffed, despite the waves of recruitment drives over the last five years. This has left Mali vulnerable as it compromises efforts to rebuild military capabilities.

“The armed forces have shown a certain level of vigilance in the face of attacks,” said Moussa Dienta, who works for the Coordination of Associations for Peace and Development in Mali (CAPEDEM), a body that supports the country’s military transition.

He said that to support the army, communities in Mali should “make their contribution” by helping gather local “intelligence” that enhances their ability to do their work. “This will enable the army to remain the pillar of the nation.”

While some support the military’s efforts, others argue that they are not enough to contain the threat of the armed groups.

“No one is safe from the new terrorist threat posed by al-Qaeda and its affiliates in Mali,” said Jean Marie Konate, a community development expert with the Red Cross in the Kayes region, pointing to the hostage-taking of the Indian nationals last week.

“The assailants are determined to bite where it hurts, and foreigners will remain potential targets.”

India has urged the “safe and expeditious” release of the hostages, with its foreign ministry saying it “unequivocally condemns this deplorable act of violence”. It said its embassy in Bamako was also in close communication with the relevant authorities of Mali and urged all its citizens in the country to “exercise utmost caution” while there.

But some analysts feel more effort is needed. Defence and security expert Aly Tounkara, who lectures at the University of Bamako, believes embassies should take immediate additional security measures to reinforce the protection of their nationals.

“States seem overwhelmed and they are genuinely unprepared to prevent coordinated attacks. The threat stalks all states in the Sahel and beyond, and will certainly have economic and social repercussions in surrounding countries,” he warned.

Finding viable security solutions

The coups that brought the military to power under Assimi Goita followed mass antigovernment protests in Bamako, over the previous leadership’s failure to deal with advancing swarms of armed groups from the north.

While the military made security one of its top priorities when it took power, July’s attacks, like previous ones, calls into question the viability of the strategy the current government has in place, analysts say.

Experts are also divided on the best approach to rebuilding the national security sector, as Russian military intervention and joint patrols with the army in certain parts of the country seem to be showing their limits.

“It is clear that the military approach offers no lasting alternative or definitive solution to the crisis,” said Alkaya Toure, an expert and former technical adviser to the Malian Ministry of Defence under previous governments.

“What needs to be done is, to effectively combat the attacks, Mali should redouble its vigilance and strengthen its security watch … to be set for the long term.”

Security expert Tounkara is, however, not convinced this will be enough.

“I’m not saying this to frighten anyone. We are in a dangerous and vicious circle, and the attacks will continue in the long term. Those who are not aware of this should be convinced,” he said.

He feels Bamako’s current strategy to tackle armed groups focuses more on theory and political manoeuvrings than on localised dynamics and solutions.

“Pockets of insecurity can only be tackled through local approaches. This will inevitably require greater involvement of what I call the invisible players. Leaders cannot claim to be fighting terrorism effectively by excluding or marginalising the invisible players who are so key to stability.”

In its current strategy, “Mali is making the same mistakes as in previous agreements, offering the same diagnosis and the same therapy”, Tounkara said.

“We need to move towards contextualising security solutions.”

Mali Russia
Russian President Vladimir Putin and Malian military leader Assimi Goita at the Kremlin Palace. Bamako has moved closer to Moscow since the 2021 coup [Pavel Bednyakov/Pool via Reuters]

Uncertain political prospects

The system to rebuild security in Mali is taking on water, observers say.

With an operational strength of nearly 25,000 soldiers, the Malian army is struggling to occupy the 1,241,000 square kilometres (480,000 square miles) of national territory.

And the recent attacks are a further slap in the face, especially as they targeted a region the government may have thought was safe.

A military source close to the defence cabinet, who requested anonymity, expressed his dismay: “The recent attacks are not just a problem of inattention or a lack of vigilance, they are above all linked to the poor deployment of security throughout the country,” he told Al Jazeera.

“Since the coordinated attacks on Bamako on 17 September, 2024, efforts have remained focused on the central and northern regions. In the western region, the general staff have sufficiently reduced the military presence, overlooking the fact that the threat is omnipresent.”

As the violence between the army and armed groups escalates, the political situation in Mali is also growing increasingly tense.

In May, the military government announced the dissolution of political parties and organisations by presidential decree.

Then, last week, the transitional authorities adopted a bill granting a five-year presidential term of office to Goita, renewable “as many times as necessary” without holding elections.

Critics have decried these moves as restrictions on freedom to consolidate the military leadership’s hold on power in the country.

At the same time, Russian intervention in Mali – which observers say took place under conditions that are still unclear – has failed to stem the threat of the armed groups they are meant to help fight.

After the 2021 coup, Goita’s government distanced itself from France, its former colonial power, with French forces exiting Mali in 2022.

To fill the security vacuum, Bamako turned to Russian fighters from the Wagner mercenary group. Last month, Wagner announced its exit from the country, saying Kremlin-controlled Africa Corps paramilitaries would remain in their place.

But the Kremlin seems more concerned with the economic stakes of its partnership with Mali.

In June, a trip to Russia by Goita culminated in a series of economic agreements and conventions with Moscow. Energy and mining issues have taken precedence over security, observers say.

Meanwhile, for Malian civilians increasingly caught between the escalating violence, fear and uncertainty remain.

After the attack in Kayes town last week, a hospital source speaking to the AFP news agency said more than 10 seriously injured people were admitted to the medical facility there, and one civilian died.

Gregg Wallace ‘can’t wear underwear’ due to autism as he’s sacked by BBC

According to the BBC, 50 more people have approached them with fresh claims about former MasterChef host Gregg Wallace, including an allegation of groping, which he strongly denies

Gregg Wallace apologised for using inappropriate language, but denied the more serious claims

Friends of Gregg Wallace has claimed his autism is partly to blame for alleged behaviour that has seen him sacked from BBC’s MasterChef, after 21 years. More specifically, the 60-year-old reportedly has “autistic hypersensitivity”, which results in him having an “oddity of filters and boundaries”.

It is claimed another effect of his autism is an exaggerated sensory experience, which means he has an “inability to wear underwear because of his autistic hypersensitivity to labels and tight clothing”. The BBC host stepped away from MasterChef back in November, after 13 people made complaints of inappropriate sexual comments against him over a 17-year period.

According to BBC News, he is now facing fresh allegations from at least 50 people, who say they encountered him across a range of shows and settings.

Among the claims, one MasterChef worker says she was groped by Gregg, which left her feeling “absolutely horrified” and “quite sick”.

Another said he pulled trousers down in front of her in a dressing room, what she described as “disgusting and predatory” behaviour.

Gregg Wallace
Gregg Wallace has been sacked from BBC’s MasterChef(Image: BBC)

He has strongly denied these allegations. Gregg himself has claimed that being autistic has led him to misread social situations, and friends claim it stopped him from going out.

A friend told The Times: “He stopped going out with the team and stopped telling jokes because he realised he didn’t know what was right and what crossed the line.”

“Gregg is guilty of bad jokes and rough humour,” a source previously said. “But so many people on the show talked openly about suspecting that he had autism for years before he got his diagnosis.

“To sack him now when they were well aware of his condition is outrageous. He’s going to take them to the cleaners.”

The new allegations come to light just days before the result of a report on separate claims made last year. It led to MasterChef’s production company Banijay commissioning a report on him, which was overseen by the law firm Lewis Silkin.

Gregg won't appear in any future MasterChef episodes
Gregg Wallace pictured with his former MasterChef co-presenter, John Torode(Image: BBC/Shine TV)

The former BBC star has admitted to “using inappropriate language”, which he apologised for in a statement, but claims he has been cleared of “the most serious and sensational accusations made against me”.

As part of a lengthy statement shared on his Instagram page, Gregg also hit out at his employers for doing “nothing” to investigate his disability.

He claimed: “My neurodiversity, now formally diagnosed as autism, was suspected and discussed by colleagues across countless seasons of MasterChef.

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“Yet nothing was done to investigate my disability or protect me from what I now realise was a dangerous environment for over twenty years. That failure is now being quietly buried.”

He concluded: “I was tried by media and hung out to dry well before the facts were established. The full story of this incredible injustice must be told and it is very much a matter of public interest.”

Nigerian Army Repels Attacks, Neutralises Bandits In Kebbi

The Nigerian Army’s 223 Light Battalion, Zuru, has successfully repelled a large-scale attack by bandits on Ribah town in the Danko Wasagu Local Government Area of Kebbi State.

The assault, which occurred on Wednesday, involved over 400 heavily armed bandits who attempted to overrun the town.

A fierce gun battle ensued, during which many of the attackers were neutralised.

While some managed to retrieve the corpses of their fallen comrades, several bodies were left behind, along with a cache of recovered weapons.

Director of Security in the Cabinet Office, Alhaji AbdulRahman Zagga, confirmed the development in Birnin Kebbi, commending the bravery and resilience of the Nigerian Army.

He noted that although the attackers initially posed a serious threat due to their large numbers, the superior combat skills and determination of the troops shifted the momentum in favor of the military.

Zagga also commended the swift intervention of the Nigerian Air Force, whose fighter jet provided critical air support by bombing fleeing bandits and inflicting heavy casualties.

“Though the gunfire caused initial panic and confusion within the community, the situation has since been brought under control and normalcy fully restored,” Zagga said.

He added that the attackers were suspected to be the same group responsible for a recent attack in Niger State.

“They had crossed into Kebbi to launch another assault, which was ultimately foiled, an outcome that underscores the effectiveness of the proactive security measures implemented by Governor Nasir Idris,” he stated.

Foiled Mera Attack

In a separate incident on the same day, troops from Dukku Barracks repelled another attack by Lakurawa bandits in Mera, Augie Local Government Area.

The bandits had attempted to rustle cattle but were met with strong resistance from soldiers, forcing them to retreat.

Governor Idris expressed appreciation for the gallant efforts of the Nigerian Army and other security agencies involved in both operations.

He reiterated his administration’s unwavering commitment to strengthening security across the state and pledged continued support for all security formations, especially those operating in frontline areas.

Arsenal sign Brentford midfielder Norgaard

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Arsenal have signed Denmark midfielder Christian Norgaard from Brentford in a £15m deal.

The 31-year-old has joined for an initial £10m – with a possible £5m in performance-related add-ons – on a two-year contract with the option of a third year.

Norgaard joined Brentford from Fiorentina in 2019 and became a key player, captaining his side and making 196 appearances.

The Gunners were interested in Sevilla’s French midfielder Lucien Agoume, but manager Mikel Arteta opted for Norgaard because he preferred a Premier League-ready player.

“I’ve just turned 31 and had signed a new deal with Brentford,” he said.

“There’s always a little chance that a miracle could happen with Brentford, but it was probably unrealistic to play Champions League with them.

“Now I get to hear the anthem and be a part of a Champions League campaign. It’s a childhood dream and something I didn’t think would be possible. So it’s something I’m really, really happy about.”

Norgaard helped Brentford win promotion from the Championship in 2021, before making 122 Premier League appearances.

He is Arsenal’s third signing of the summer.

Midfielder Martin Zubimendi joined from Real Sociedad last week in a deal worth almost £60m, while goalkeeper Kepa Arrizabalaga moved from Chelsea for £5m.

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Oasis Heaton Park: Heatwave set to hit Manchester as bosses issue huge warning

Oasis fans will be hoping for some Champagne Supernova weather as they prepare to descend on Heaton Park for the band’s upcoming sold-out concerts this weekend

Oasis fans are set to face scorching conditions at the band’s upcoming Heaton Park gigs. The Manchester-based group, led by brothers Liam and Noel Gallagher, are gearing up for five sold-out performances starting this Friday, with each show drawing in a crowd of 80,000.

However, as the first concert is just one day away, it appears that fans will be treated to warmer weather, with gates opening at 3pm. Despite the UK’s reputation for unpredictable weather during outdoor events, this weekend’s forecast presents a different kind of challenge.

Bosses have since issued a huge warning to those in attendance. Although taking food and drink into Heaton Park is strictly prohibited, those attending can, instead, take a collapsible 500ml water bottle. Once inside the park, there will be dedicated water refill points, as well as the bar, which will be stocked with both alcoholic and soft drinks.

Fans are also encouraged to wear sun protection and, if possible, a hat to reduce the risks of sunburn and sunstroke. There will also be medical assistance from the three welfare tents, two situated to the left of the stage and one to the right, close to the merchandise stand and bar.

A heatwave is set to hit Heaton Park this weekend(Image: Met Office)

READ MORE: Oasis have released new tickets for UK tour – how to buy yours if you missed out

Although the recent mini-heatwave has subsided, predictions indicate that temperatures could soar to nearly 30 degrees over the weekend. Currently, the likelihood of rain is less than 5 per cent throughout the entire weekend.

According to the Met Office, Friday could see temperatures peaking at a scorching 27 degrees around 4pm, while the early morning low at 4am is expected to be a more comfortable 15 degrees. At 1pm, an orange warning will be issued, indicating a level 7 UV exposure, so sunscreen will be essential for those attending.

As the gig winds down, the temperature is set to dip slightly to a more manageable 22 degrees. On Saturday, for the second sold-out show, the heatwave looks set to continue, showing no signs of letting up anytime soon.

Oasis will be performing five shows in Manchester
Oasis will be performing five shows in Manchester(Image: Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images)

Instead, the coolest temperature at 4am will be 18 degrees, whilst the hottest point between 4pm and 7pm will reach 27 degrees. Despite the scorching conditions, the strongest UV warning will hit at 1pm, registering at level 7. The BBC forecasts Friday’s weather: “Friday should then be dry with sunshine throughout the day. Becoming very warm or hot.”

Marco Petagna, senior meteorologist at the Met Office, revealed that conditions will begin warming up on Wednesday, with settled weather returning after numerous regions faced thunderstorm alerts overnight.

The weather expert explained: “I think Wednesday is probably going to be the day when we could start to reach the thresholds of 25 to 28 degrees, depending on where you are.”

He continued: “We probably won’t actually reach an official heatwave until around Friday, to give the three consecutive days at those temperatures. But temperatures are going to continue to climb as we go toward the end of the week, and certainly, by Friday and Saturday, we could see 30 degrees, perhaps just nudging into the low 30s.

Fans are encouraged to take collapsible water bottles
Fans are encouraged to take collapsible water bottles(Image: PA)

“At the weekend, we could just start to see humidity increasing a little bit as well, and nighttime temperatures look like they are going to be, so it will be starting to become more uncomfortable at night.

“It’s a bit of a question mark going through the weekend early next week as to how long the heat will last and how high the temperatures will get, because some models are sort of pushing the heat away a bit more quickly, whereas others keep the heat going.

“At this stage, it looks as though certainly into next weekend, we should hold on to hot weather across the south of the UK, and temperatures could again certainly get into the low 30s in a few spots.

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“And we are going to see some very high pollen and very high UV levels as well. But at this stage, we’ve managed to escape some of the very highest temperatures, those seen across Spain and Portugal in particular, where it has reached the mid-40s.”